When I ask first-time skincare clients what their main concerns are, most reply that the signs of premature aging: lines, wrinkles, sagging skin and hyperpigmentation (age spots) are what bother them most. When they ask what they can do about these conditions, we get into a conversation about good hydration, technologies and active ingredients in product to stimulate collagen and suppress melanin production, aggressive exfoliation to remove dead and pigmented skin cells, and adequate protection from UV radiation, the primary cause for all of the above conditions. When I then inquire about their use of sunscreen, most reply that they rarely use it or use it only when they are out in intense sunlight. My clients are in good company; research indicates that 70% of consumers believe sunlight causes sun damage and premature aging, and yet only 18% use a daily sunscreen.
If you’ve had an opportunity to look closely at the skin of most elderly people, you’ll see that the skin that has been covered with clothing for decades is still soft, finely textured, and unblemished. Only those areas that have been in contact with sunlight are dry, wrinkled, and pigmented. Skin damage is cumulative; it happens gradually and the destruction only becomes visible with age. Since UV radiation responsible for most premature aging, we’ll center discussion around protection.
The UV wavelengths we’re most concerned with are UVA and UVB. Let’s begin with UVB (the “Burning” rays). UVB is only partially absorbed by the ozone layer, and the UVB rays that do penetrate the atmosphere are responsible for sunburns. UVB peaks between 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m., making it less dangerous in the early morning and late evening. Also, UVB can be blocked to some extent by very dense clouds, layers of clothing and glass.
UVA (think “Aging” rays) comprises about 95% of the UV that reaches the earth. UVA penetrates deeper into the skin than UVB, causing damage into the deeper dermal layers, which has been linked to premature aging and wrinkle formation. UVA can penetrate cloud cover, light clothing and untinted glass, as well. UVA radiation is a concern year-round and at any time of day, not just on hot, sunny days.
Research has shown conclusively that sunscreens are effective at protecting the skin from this damage. Both UVA and UVB have also been linked to cancer (one in every five Americans will develop skin cancer in their lifetime), so daily use of a good sunscreen is imperative for good health and as well as younger-looking skin. The primary function of a sunscreen is to reduce the dose of UV the skin receives by absorption or reflection before it can penetrate into the skin and damage key components such as DNA, collagen and elastin, much like an umbrella shields you from the rain. Sunscreen ingredients reduce the dose of UV to varying degrees, so it is important to use a product containing an effective combination of ingredients in order to truly get broad-spectrum protection. But how do we know if we’re getting adequate protection?
SPF (sun protection factor) is a number that indicates protection against skin effects such as redness, inflammation and sunburn, which are all effects of UVB. The SPF number indicates how much longer one can stay out in the sun without getting sunburned compared to NO protection; 30 times longer when wearing an SPF 30, 15 times longer with an SPF 15. However, don’t get the idea that SPF 30 blocks twice as much UV as SPF 15. SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB, while SPF 15 blocks 93%. Applying half of the effective dose of an SPF 30 does not result in an SPF 15, but something closer to an SPF 7 or 9. Applying two layers assures more even, continuous coverage, and more than doubles the SPF on the skin. In addition, it is important to reapply every two hours for an SPF 15 and every four hours for an SPF 30, even if your skin darker, to give yourself complete protection whenever you are exposed to UV radiation.
Each sunscreen ingredient absorbs or reflects UV across a specific wavelength range, so it’s important to use a product containing an effective combination of ingredients in order to truly get broad-spectrum protection. At this time there is no standard test or product label to indicate the level of UVA protection in sunscreens; sunscreens are evaluated in terms of their ability to block mainly UVB via the SPF test. Even though many claim to protect against both UVA and UVB, in one study, 44% of those labeled “broad spectrum” did not even contain one FDA-recognized UVA sunscreen ingredient. In order to get protection from UVA, look for the ingredients Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and Avobenzone. These ingredients can now be formulated to feel great on the skin AND offer optimum protection.
The trend today is to use higher SPF sunscreens, but high SPF has been associated with sensitivities. Chemical sunscreens change structure at the molecular level when they absorb energy from the sun; this can result in photochemical end products, which can react in or on the skin. A better solution for those who develop sensitivities is to use two layers of a lower SPF. Cosmetically formulated products with a lower SPF that are applied more generously, more often, and more consistently will protect as well or better than the higher SPF products. These cosmetically formulated products are not waterproof or sweatproof, however, meaning that the sunscreen will not wash off with 80 minutes of exposure to normal swimming, so be sure to use the appropriate product for the conditions under which it will be used.
Dermatologists and scientists throughout the world agree that the daily use of at least an SPF 15 broad-spectrum sunscreen product will help to diminish acute and chronic damage to the skin—and fewer of the lines, wrinkles, and spots we’d like to avoid. Research shows that people who understand that they are at risk from skin cancer and premature aging are more motivated to protect themselves and take necessary steps to reverse the damage.
We can attenuate the effects of years of sun damage with good skin hydration, technologies, and active ingredients in product to stimulate collagen and suppress melanin production, and aggressive exfoliation to remove dead and pigmented skin cells. If you have questions or concerns about your skin, call me for a complementary consultation. We will discuss your personal goals and devise a plan to achieve healthier, younger-looking skin.
Body Therapy Skin & Body Care
707-799-6651
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